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Graduate Students
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Guide to the Archives By Mike Ryan Any research in Barcelona will invariably bring you to the venerable Arxiu de la Corona de Aragón. One of the premier guides for the novice researcher with which the novice research can orient him/herself is: Udina Martorell, Federico. Guia historica y descriptiva del Archivo de la Corona de Aragon. Madrid, 1986. Though this guide talks about the archive’s former location in the Ciutat Vella, it is still important in explaining how the archive’s sources are arranged. It’s also got a very interesting analysis of the history of the archive’s development. The archive is accessible online. From there, investigators can link to other archives’ and libraries’ websites in Spain and, broadly, to the Ministerio de Cultura. Though the ACA is the premier research institution in Barcelona, it is hardly the only one. Additional archives and libraries that are present in the city include the Arxiu Histňric de la Ciutat; the Arxiu Diocesŕ de Barcelona; and the Biblioteca de Catalunya, among many, many others. Researchers interested in finding out about the plethora of archives in Barcelona and beyond would be wise to consult the Generalitat de Catalunya’s 1999 publication, Directori dels Arxius de Catalunya. This guide lists all archives and libraries in Catalunya and provides the reader with locations, hours, contact information, websites, and guides to each institution. An excellent website resource that Adam Kosto and Paul Freedman have compiled is their Bibliography for the History of Medieval Catalonia. Though it was last updated in the summer of 2001, it is invaluable for the researcher who wants to begin, or sharpen, his or her investigations. It’s divided into six parts: Sources, Guides to Archives, Series, Quick Reference, Festschriften and Collected Studies, and Symposia. There is also another excellent source for researchers who want to conduct research related to Catalonia, but need to spend time in the United States before leaving: the Hill Monastic Manuscript Library, located in Collegeville, MN. They’ve microfilmed the entirety of the holdings of the Diocesan Archive of Barcelona, which is of utmost importance for researchers interested in any ecclesiastical-themed research there. They also have residency stipends, the Heckman Stipend, awarded twice a year, specifically directed towards doctoral students and junior scholars. Lodging Barcelona is not a cheap city in which to live. The last few years have seen it become a hipper place for the young and beautiful of Europe and, as a result, prices in housing have gone up accordingly. It is possible to find lodging within the city that is cheap, but it requires one usually to have LARGE resources at one’s disposal, for one usually has to pay first and last month’s rent up front. If one has an “in” in the city, friends, for instance, who live there and who can refer them to other apartments, that helps. Researchers who reside in Barcelona often need to leave for other places and will request tenants to sublet their apartments. Joining list-servs such as Espora, offered by the Society for Spanish and Portuguese Historical Studies (SSPHS); or Medieval-L, are extremely helpful in making those contacts. Finally, the Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas has a residencia for scholars. I’ve not lived here, so I can’t attest to its quality, but it is very closely located to the Biblioteca de Catalunya, in the Raval, a hip and growing part of Barcelona. For getting around the city and knowing what’s available to see and do, check out the home page for the city. This website also has an excellent, interactive map to the city, which permits one to find a host of institutions, restaurants, services, hotels, and the like. (My two cents: the residencia is very nice and in a great neighborhood (next to the Biblioteca de Catalunya, but not very social. I recommend Home Hostel – far out, but great - Myra) Protocol: Spanish archives and libraries aren’t as formal as French ones, but it still helps to have a sense of what’s expected. Writing a letter before arrival, notifying the director of the archive about who you are and when you’ll be arriving, isn’t necessary, but it is quite useful. What IS necessary, however, is to come bearing a formal letter of introduction from your advisor and/or home institution. For the latter example, getting a seal from the president’s office affixed to your introduction letter (usually a formality at American universities) helps immensely. Bring PLENTY of passport photos, too, since various investigators’ carnets require them. Begin by getting your carnet de investigador from the ACA. You’ll need to meet with the director of the ACA, Jaume Riera i Sans, who is a dear individual. Once you get your carnet, it’s good for three years. Showing your ACA carnet at other archives in Barcelona and Catalunya is usually sufficient to help get you carnets for other libraries and archives, but be sure to bring your introductory letter, just in case. Dress is not especially formal. A sweater and a pair of clean jeans can suffice in the archives (especially in the winter…certain archives and libraries get very cold in Barcelona, even during the winter months, especially rainy February). Dress cleanly and modestly and you’ll be fine. Food and Drink: Barcelona’s quickly becoming a culinary capital of Europe and it’s one of the major benefits to working there (besides being in a beautiful city in and of itself). There are wonderful restaurants all around and about the city. Some of my personal favorites include: Tast (Catalan) Els Quatre Gats (Catalan) Cal Pep (tapas) Set Portes (paella) There are also plenty of excellent (albeit a bit tourist-heavy) places to eat in the Eixample, on either side of the Rambla de Catalunya. AVOID all places on the Rambla, except for the Café de la Opera (across from the Liceu), for they are overpriced. Communication and transportation: Probably the best investment is to buy a triband cell phone, which permits one to use their cell phone in Europe. Cell phone culture in Barcelona is ubiquitous and many models are super cheap and easy. If you’re planning on making many long-distance calls to the States, don’t get a phone that requires card recharging, since it will be VERY expensive. They’re good to go, though, for minimal calling activity at a minimal cost. Internet cafés are also ubiquitous. The one that I used, when I lived there was Easy Internet café. They’ve two locations: one on the Ronda de Sant Pere and one at the end of the Rambles, both of which are essentially open almost 24 hours. The one at the end of the Rambles also has a work center, a la Kinko’s. Easy Internet café is owned by the same people who own the budget airline, Easy Jet, which flies from Barcelona to major European cities for dirt-cheap. Finally, Barcelona has an excellent mass-transit system of buses,
trains, and metro lines. Going to any metro station will permit
one to buy passes for up to three months, which can be used on bus
and metro lines for an unlimited amount of time. By Ann Higgins I spent part of this summer doing research in Scotland and England, and would like to pass on some tips based on my experiences. Libraries: I spent three days in the National Library of Scotland (NLS) in Edinburgh (I was at the NCS conference in July at the University of Glasgow and stayed on for a few days), about a week and a half at the BL and three days at the Bodleian and found all three libraries very welcoming and helpful. The most important thing is to get in touch with the libraries ahead of time, let them know why you want to work there, and make sure that you have all required letters of introduction with you before you go there. Email works well, but if you don't get a reply to your emails, be prepared to call. I emailed the NLS and after several weeks went by, I called them and found that their replies to me had bounced and they had no other way of getting in touch. A mailing address in your initial email is thus a good idea, as is a phone #. When I got to Oxford I found that my emails and their replies were already in a file and I think that speeded things up a bit. Different libraries have different admission rules. Most will want a letter from your supervisor, but the application form for the Bodleian has a section to be filled out by your supervisor. Download the form ahead of time and make sure your supervisor fills that section out before you leave. Most libraries have no problem admitting legitimate grad students. For the BL it has to be clear that you really need to get to see their specific holdings--that other libraries don't have all you need. Also, the BL form distinguishes between taught postgrad degrees and research degrees--make sure you fill out the research degree part of the form or they won't let you in very easily. Also, make sure your supervisor states clearly that you are doing a PhD in his/her letter of introduction. Keep that letter with you when you go to the library--some of the MSS I wanted to see were classified as special or fragile and that letter allowed me to see them. The BL does not charge for its admission card. The Bodleian does. For 10.00 pounds I had a choice between 6-months unlimited access or 12 separate days over 4 years. I chose the latter and used three. I found I used my time very efficiently as a result and now have 9 days left in case I return. I was working on 12th, 13th, and 14th century MSS. The BL is very efficient--their holdings are computerized and it rarely took more than 30 minutes for a manuscript to reach my desk. I was working on just one MS in Scotland, so after the first morning , it was very quick. The Bodleian is less high-tech. Many of their MSS are not in the online catalogue, it can take a couple of hours for them to deliver MSS, and it can sometimes take a while even to get the shelf-mark until you get used to their system. When I emailed them initially, they suggested I email them a couple of days before I arrived to let them know the first three or four MSS I wanted to see. I did, and when I got there they were waiting for me. I also quickly developed the habit of dropping off several request slips before I left each evening--that meant that the next morning the MSS were there and I could get to work right away. Accommodation and travel: While I was in Scotland I stayed in Glasgow in a dorm run by the University of Glasgow and took the train each day to Edinburgh. Because I was a student (age is irrelevant if you are) I qualified for a Young Person's Railcard (bring 20.00 pounds, a letter from your Dept saying you're a full-time student and a photo [of you]) and that got me a discounted cheap day return ticket to Edinburgh from Glasgow each day. I couldn't use the train before 9:30 a.m. or between 4:30 and 6:30 each evening, but that wasn't much of a problem. By 4:00 I was going cross-eyed from peering at MSS anyway and ready to leave and go back to Glasgow. Alternatively, you can spend the evening in Edinburgh. Commuting was a bit of a pain but, on the plus side, I really liked Glasgow. It's a friendly city, --the University's dorms are on the west end, a nice part of town-- and there are some good pubs where people don't seem to mind strangers, so you can relax in the evening. Because of the exchange rate, the cost of living is very high in the UK for people from the US--another advantage of a dorm or hostel, as you can buy food and use the kitchen facilities to cook meals instead of having to eat out. The University Office that deals with visitor accommodation is Conference and Visitor Services. I stayed in the Murano Street dorm. It is the cheapest and a bit basic but quite OK. A huge plus is that the dorm laundry facilities are free--all you need is detergent! I took a train from Glasgow to London. Train travel can be cheap or very expensive, and it all depends on when and how you buy your ticket. A month or so before I left the U.S. I went onto the British Rail website, clicked the "planning your journey" link, and eventually found a cheap ticket from Glasgow to London. It's a hassle, and you have to commit to a specific time for your journey, but is a great deal cheaper than buying a ticket when you get there. If the amount of train travel you'll be doing makes it worthwhile, you can get a BritRail pass before you leave the U.S. When I was working in the BL I stayed in London with a friend so
I have no info on accommodation except to note that *everything*
in London is horribly expensive. I commuted to Oxford. It was tiring
and time consuming but cheaper than paying for a bed! My railcard
saved me about 5.00 pounds each day. For getting around London use
the bus whenever possible. The underground is expensive (2.00 a
trip or 1.50 if you buy a carnet of ten), crowded, hot and not always
reliable, though sometimes it is the best way to get to where you
want to go. Buses work very well, especially if, as I was, you're
near the center anyway, and they are comparatively cheap--1.00 per
journey. You must have exact change and they prefer you to buy your
ticket in advance from a machine, but most newsagents sell the Supersaver--a
pad of 6 tickets for 4.20, i.e 70p per ride--and that's the best
way to go. By Heather Parker 1. Skip the Underground and use the Bus pass - this will enable you to see more of the city and help your sense of direction. When you read a source - you will be better able determine distance. Sit on the top and in the front. Walking as much as possible also helps with this. Plus the bus pass is cheaper. 2. Check out the Royal Festival Hall - it is filled with historical information and has a Poetry Library on the 5th floor. They have art, cultural events and independent film festivals there. This is on the South Bank. 3. The Tower of London - Simply a must for a Tudor fanatic. Just do it once though. 4. Camden Town - a must of the suburbs for culture and social issues. It comes up time and time again. I lived there for about 4 months. The bohemian atmosphere negates the social problems, however much it is apparent in the way people act and carry themselves. 5. New King's Road - From Sloane Square (take Bus #22 from Piccadilly Circus-it is a GREAT ride..very scenic of central London) check out the richness of the rich and walk down the King's Road. It is full of antique shops. I work with a man on campus at UCF who owned one of them - it has a very interesting quality. I lived more towards Fullham Broadway and used to take weekend strolls down the King's Road into Sloane Square. Nice place to look, not buy. 6. Green Park/Bond Street Art Galleries - The Art Galleries are wonderful in London. There are a huge group of them around Green Park. Across from the Ritz down Dover Road..there are some nice galleries and pubs. Bus 22 will take you past this from the Picadilly - Sloane Square route above. 7. St. Katherine's Docks is a quietly tucked away place to grab something to eat or enjoy watching people. It is near Tower Bridge and the Tower of London. 8. Covent Garden, Leicester Square and Piccadilly Circus - Anyone who goes to London will see this touristy side of it all. But what is awesome in my perspective is the close proximity of the British Library. It is I'd say within 20-30 minutes walking distance. I had a friend there who drove the buses. One day he had us walking everywhere. It definitely gave me a great sense of direction at a later time. 9. Wimbledon - it is a long bus ride south from Central London so worth taking the train if you are in a hurry, but definitely worth the bus ride if you like scenery. It has a quaint village feel to it. A little further South is Kingston. It happens to have a wonderful shopping complex if you are in need of goods you are thinking of from home. A lot of selection and because you are out of Central London, a little less pricey. 10. Durham, Nottingham, and York have quality historical sites
- however Lincoln left the most medieval impression on me. The houses
are butted up against the cathedral and the castle is merely blocks
away. You can see everything in the city from the castle wall. Reading
is a nice suburb, a bit too modern in some perspectives. I went
to Brighton - the only thing that was incredibly worth it was the
Royal Pavilion.
Definitely worth a day trip. By Jochen Schenk Here are some ideas concerning the BN in Paris, Rue Richelieu (where most of the old stuff is). Opening hours are available at their web site. If I remember correctly, then the Manuscript Reading Room (which is on the first floor, main building) stays open Mo-Fr 9.00-17.00 and Sa 10.00-17.00. To get into the manuscript room you need a reader's ticket with the right access code. This can be obtained from the admissions office (if you enter the main building, turn right. It's at the end of the corridor). You have to pay for your tickets. Two days (carte 2 jours) cost Euro 4,50; fifteen days (carte 15 jours) Euro 30 (Euro 15 for students); and the annual ticket (carte annuelle) Euro 46 (Euro 23 for students). It is important that when you apply for a ticket you have a passport or any other documentation with your picture on it ready. You also need a letter of recommendation which states the reason for your visit and which sources and literature you are likely to consult. The letter can be in English (in which case the librarian will pretend to understand it), must be written on formal (meaning departmental) paper (because that the librarian WILL understand), and should bear a seal. Very likely the librarian will not understand everything in the letter if it is in English. Therefore make sure that you ask to have access to manuscripts AND secondary literature when you order your reader’s ticket. That way you can use your card in the Mitterrand library as well, which is where most of the 'new' books are. If you want to consult maps or coins, then say so, too. The knowledge of English among staff in both the Richelieu and the Mitterrand library is poor. And to understand how the system works, once you have made it to the manuscript room, can be a very slow and frustrating process if you don't know what the other person is talking about. In a nutshell, this is what they will try to explain to you: Upon you entering the reading room, the first librarian (sitting at a desk at the entrance) will take your reader's pass and put it away. In return you will receive the key for one of the lockers outside, a paper slip with today's date (which you have to wave in his face whenever you leave or enter the room), and a plastic plaque with your seat number on it. If you know the signature you want, write it on one of the order slips which are available at the reception desk and take it to the librarian at the far end of the room. Before you give it to him, however, make sure you check for a possible microfilm copy (the catalogue is also at the far end of the room) and, if necessary, add that number to the signature. The librarian will take your plastic badge and the order slip and give you a another plastic badge in a different colour instead. With this you go back to your place and wait for a third librarian to bring the book/manuscript etc. If you ordered a microfilm, then you will be allotted to one of the reading machines. Once you have finished your reading, take whatever you were consulting and your plastic badge back to the desk at the far end, where you will receive your first plastic badge back. With that AND the paper slip with today's date on it AND your computer and all other belongings you then have to proceed to the desk in the middle of the room. Here yet another librarian will inspect your belongings for stolen treasures. Provided the 12th century manuscript under your arm is really yours, he or she will take your paper slip with the date on it away and give you a blue paper slip instead. This and the plastic badge you take to the 'porter' at the door, who will take both (and give you nothing). Once you have opened your locker, return the key and you'll get your reader's ticket back. It is really that easy..... The catalogues are in the library and easy to consult. You can also do a preliminary search online. Most of the staff is really helpful, although one of them (a young man who, unfortunately, seems to be the receptionist-in-chief) is... well... not. Make sure you arrive early, as the reading room is not big and often already booked out by 10.00. If you are planning to spend more than three weeks in Paris it
is worth signing up with Appartager.
Here you have access to a database of people (French, American or
other) on the lookout for house-/flat-/room-mates in Paris. Depending
on your budget, you'll be able to move into lodgings in a nice or
not so nice arrondissement, for which you will share the rent with
others. What you make of Paris is really up to you. Just make sure
you have a great time. And don't fall for Pigalle, Champs Elysee
and Montmartre. Oberkampf and Republique is where the fun is! By Meredith Cohen For those of you who study French topics and/or conduct research in France, please allow me to introduce the International Medieval Society, Paris. The IMS Paris is a non-profit association that aims to optimize the academic research experience by providing information and assisting with access to the wide range of opportunities offered to medievalists in Paris and in France. By facilitating communications among independent researchers and the different French institutions or academics through meetings, presentations, and visits, the IMS Paris aims to improve academic exchange and promote interdisciplinary and international scholarship. The Society is a cooperative association that relies on the participation of its members to realize its goals. For more information about the International Medieval Society, Paris.
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